Riparian retro
8/21/2009A cruise along the Chao Phraya and adjacent canals features historic temples that gives a fascinating glimpse of how our forebears lived
Writer: PATSINEE KRANLERT
Published: 20/08/2009 at 12:00 AM
Newspaper section: Horizons
Sometimes referred to as the River of Kings, the Chao Phraya meanders across the Central Plains and passes through the fertile delta area to bisect Bangkok before emptying into the Gulf of Thailand.
The country owes many facets of its cultural heritage to this vital artery, around which villages and towns have sprung up, their populations erecting a host of temples and conducting commerce via a network of tributary rivers and canals, waterways being the main mode of transportation until the advent of sealed roads.
As the influence wielded by the Kingdom of Sukhothai waned in the mid-14th century, the centre of power shifted south to Ayutthaya, the city which would be the seat of Siamese monarchs for four centuries until its destruction by Burmese armies in 1767 necessitated the construction of a new capital in Thon Buri.Since there is no better way of getting an idea of what life was like back in the days when our ancestors' existence revolved around rivers and canals, I decided one recent bright Sunday morning to take to the water myself, joining a trip organised by Siam Vision (Siamtas) which is an active group of culture enthusiasts. What I initially presumed would be a lazy day out requiring the minimum of exertion turned out to be a multi-flavoured journey back in time providing me with awe-inspiring insights into our country's history and traditional riparian lifestyles.
The highlights of our itinerary were four ancient canalside temples dating back to the Ayutthaya period. Starting at the pier under Phra Pin Klao Bridge, we cruised leisurely southward for a while then entered Klong Dao Khanong and made our first stop at the junction with Klong Dan, site of no less than three places of worship: Wat Bang Khunthian Nok, Wat Bang Khunthian Klang and Wat Bang Khunthian Nai.
The second stop was at Wat Nang Ratchaworavihan, a temple farther along on the banks of the same canal. From there our boat re-entered the Chao Phraya via Klong Bangkok Yai before making its way into Klong Bangkok Noi. This scenic route led us to the province of Nonthaburi, where we wrapped up the day's excursion with visits to Wat Pho Bang-o and Wat Bang Oy Chang in Bang Kruai district.
The walls inside the ordination hall of Wat Bang Khunthian Klang are decorated with faded mural paintings that portray different ethnic groups residing in the Kingdom of Siam. The Western costumes, for example, can easily be recognised by elements such as hat, collar or trousers.
Wat Nang is an ancient temple dating to the Ayutthaya period. Its ubosoth, however, was built later during the reign of King Rama III when the temple was upgraded and accorded royal status. The features of the principal Buddha statue inside the ordination hall refer to the distinctive style of the Sukhothai period, while the ornament at its base bears a striking resemblance to the base of a Buddha image inside the ordination hall of the renowned Wat Pho or the Temple of the Reclining Buddha.
Situated within the compound of Wat Nang is this folk museum whose exhibits convey the rich history of this riverside neighbourhood, with extensive displays of quaint artefacts that serve as an invaluable treasure of knowledge. This section of the museum demonstrates the interior appearance of an old-style bedroom featuring various antique appliances and home decors. The rare collection ranges from a black-and-white television, self-winding gramophone, pendulum clock to a wooden dresser and vintage bed.
Ancient medical manuscripts shown here are solid examples of the century-old formulas which are derived from indigenous local wisdom. 
Betel chewing constituted a popular cultural activity enjoyed by Siamese people for many centuries since the early Sukhothai era. Subsequently in the reign of King Rama V, receptacles for betel became the symbol of status for elite ladies. The role of areca nut and betel leaf in Thai society swiftly declined during the period of reformation led by Field Marshal Plaek Pibulsongkram, the third prime minister of Thailand, whose policies sought to change the image of Siam as a nation of uncivilised people to one that is immediately acceptable to foreign eyes.
The ordination hall of Wat Bang Oy Chang houses the principal Buddha image in a rare meditation posture flanked by his two chief disciples. Whereas the history of this time-honoured Buddha statue can be traced back more than 600 years, the venue’s vibrant murals depicting episodes from the life of the Lord Buddha as well as significant scenes from history are, on the contrary, in brand new condition as they were given a retouch coinciding with the auspicious 60th anniversary of His Majesty King Bhumibol Adulyadej’s accession to the throne in 2006. 
The second floor of Wat Bang Oy Chang museum is occupied by a splendid collection of Tripitaka cabinets designed for storing Buddhist scriptures, most of which are embellished with ‘Lai Rod Nam’ motifs, a sophisticated technique of gilded black lacquer. Those in charge of the advanced craftsmanship ingeniously combined Thai history and literature to form outstandingly unique details. Kinnarees, half-bird half-human creatures that inhabit the mythical Himmapan forest, featuring a Western look, and playful cupid-like figures spotted on the cabinet reflect the wicked humour of artists from the period of King Rama IV when Siam began to establish close diplomatic relations with European nations. 
One section of the museum at Wat Nang has been turned into a nostalgic replica of a grocery store from days gone by. An old-fashioned coffee stall, vintage posters adorning rustic walls, plus an array of out-of-date items like soap, powder, laundry detergent, toothpaste, cigarette packets, milk flavouring products or candies wrapped in packagings of yesteryear are set to bring back countless memories from your childhood.
