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A million baht dinner at home

A generous donation to charity led to a fabulous gourmet dinner being cooked and served in a family home by four of Thailand's finest chefs

Writer: Story by VANNIYA SRIANGURA / Photos by ANUSORN SAKSEREE and PAIROJ KULJARATSUTEE

Published: 11/09/2009 at 12:00 AM

Newspaper section: Realtime

Though it was only three hours before the evening started, the scene wasn't at all frenetic. Some chefs were even humming to the music that came from the guest's family living room as they casually worked their way in and around a private kitchen. There was no sign of tension, no strict procedures and no arguments. Only laughter and some light jokes were heard interrupting the clanking sounds of the one-million-baht cooking venture.

Some people might see it as a vulgar luxury, others might call it a boon. In an era when food is more than simply a source of nutrients, people may regard it as a national heritage, one of life's rewards, a way to escape, a channel to show off their status _ or even a way of doing some good for society. And an example of that was beginning to take shape in front of me.

It was an aftermath of the Bangkok Chefs Charity Gala Dinner held at the Mandarin Oriental, Bangkok on July 27, which was graced by the presence of HRH Princess Maha Chakri Sirindhorn.

The event featured 16 executive chefs from Thailand's leading hotels in Bangkok and Phuket who teamed up to cook a seven-course meal to a full house of guests with all proceeds going to the Sai Jai Thai Foundation and under privileged children at three remote schools in Chiang Mai province.

One of the highlights of the charity dinner was a series of live auctions for 16 participating chefs to raise more funds for the charity. The highest bidders would get to choose their favourite chefs to cook for one night at their private residence.

The bidding price stopped at one million baht, and the Yoovidhya family of the world-famous Red Bull empire won the final auction. This meant the four executive chefs of their choice would come to their family home and cook a special dinner for them and their guests.

The date they chose was Friday, September 4 and the occasion was to celebrate Chalerm Yoovidhya's birthday, which was the day before, and there were to be 14 guests. Leading the gastronomic dream team from four of Bangkok's most prestigious hotels to cook for Chalerm's birthday dinner was Norbert Kostner of the Mandarin Oriental Bangkok, with Nicolas Schneller of Four Seasons Hotel Bangkok, Degan Suprijadi from the Banyan Tree Bangkok and Martin Faist the from Plaza Athenee Bangkok.

''Khun Chalerm gave us a free hand to create the menu, so each of us came up with our own dishes,'' said chef Norbert. ''The menu consisted of canapes, appetisers, main courses, a platter of desserts and petits fours.

''It was an exciting occasion for us. The host had donated a million baht for a very good cause, so we're working hard too to make sure that this meal is impressive.

''Each one of us has chosen the best ingredients we could find. I brought with me cepes and chanterelle mushrooms I picked myself on a recent visit to Alpine forests in Italy to use in one of the main dishes.''

Cooking at a private residence is nothing out of the ordinary for this team of highly experienced chefs. They have cooked at palaces for members of the royal family, at the homes of A-list celebrities, business tycoons and well-off households, with the number of guests ranging from 5 to 40. So was this astronomically-priced dinner at the Yoovidhya family home was just another of their many outside caterings?

''I think there's something more than the cash value that make this occasion worth a page of Bangkok's dining history,'' said chef Norbert.

''To begin with, it's the first time that the executive chefs from four of Bangkok's top hotels _ who are supposed to be rivals in the business _ are working together in the small kitchen of a private home. Secondly, everyone is doing it as a part of a merit-making activity to benefit those in need.

''Actually, it doesn't matter where we cook and who we cook for; every time we cook, we try to do the best we can. But this occasion is special because I get to work with three fellow chefs from other hotels.

''Everybody thought that we were going to fight, but no. We're friends. We don't fight, we don't even argue. We just sit down and discuss how we were going to work. It's sabai sabai.''

''It's great that the four of us got to put everything together and brought our own style of cuisine,'' said chef Nicolas Schneller. ''It's nice that everybody has something different to present. Each of us tried not to repeat what the others were doing.''

''We have to take it seriously too, because the host trusted us to make a very special dinner,'' said chef Degan Suprijadi. ''But there's a lot of professionalism here, and everyone's working together and giving a helping hand, so nothing to be nervous about. The aim here is to enjoy.''

Before the event, chefs Norbert and Degan came to take a good look at the kitchen and took photographs to send to the other two chefs.

''Actually, this was very important, because if you don't see the kitchen beforehand you won't know what to expect,'' said chef Degan.

''Once you've seen the place you can mentally prepare yourself and plan your work. After we came to inspect the kitchen we felt very comfortable because it's a good size and it's modern.''

Even so, it was not easy to fit eight people (four working chefs and their assistants) into the Yoovidhya's pantry-style kitchen; but chef Degan insisted that it was a lot better than many places he had come across.

''I've worked in smaller kitchens than this,'' he said. ''I once worked in a kitchen that had absolutely nothing and I had to bring my own chinaware. I've worked in jungle in the middle of Sri Lanka, and in remote areas like in Tibet.

''Even worse, I've worked in private homes where I wasn't allowed to use their equipment. Sometimes they won't even let you in the kitchen and have to do the cooking outside. Many times the kitchen isn't exactly what you imagine, so you have to be flexible.

''We're very happy because our guests tonight are very kind. They have given us the freedom not only to create the menu, but also to have full use of everything in the kitchen.''

If you are wondering what a-million-baht family dinner ought to look like, the word is not ''self important.'' On the contrary, I'd say the demeanour was one of humility.

''The reason behind this dinner is the intention is to give support to charity,'' said Chalerm Yoovidhya, the host of the evening.

''The meal itself is a bonus. Tonight, everyone _ the chefs, their assistants, my guests and my family _ are all part of a charitable enterprise.

''I don't think the four chefs came here just to cook. Deep inside they know they are also making merit as they're not getting paid in any other way. And the ingredients were supplied by their hotels, so everybody here has made a contribution to the charity.''

''The idea of the Bangkok Chefs Charity Gala Dinner is very unique for Thailand, and the fact that all the proceeds from this charity gala dinner event would go to Sai Jai Thai Foundation inspired us to take part,'' said Daranee Yoovidhya, the lady of the house.

''Even if the bidding had gone higher I would have kept on. I wasn't thinking about the meal, so don't ask me if it's worth it or not. It's not as if we donated the million baht in exchange for the chefs. Our aim was to help, and the fact that we have these four chefs coming to our house to cook together in our own kitchen tonight is a big plus.''

Travelling the world with opportunities to enjoy dishes at Michelin-starred restaurants, the couple were glad to see that the food and hospitality industry in Thailand has developed to a world-class standard _ whether it's the quality of ingredients, skills of chefs or forms of presentation.

''Foreign people that I meet often say how good the food in Thailand is and that Thai hospitality is first class. I believe that it could help boost the country's tourism and make Thailand one of the best gastronomic destinations in the world,'' said Chalerm.

''At the same time, our local ingredients, especially those from the Royal Projects, have proved to be equal to those harvested in the West.''

It was a casual dinner for family members and close friends, with 14 people seated around a long dining table enjoying great culinary creations by a team of world-class chefs.

''Tonight's dinner has shown that the high culinary standard in Thailand can match those anywhere in the world. It's even better because our hospitality industry can cater for all kinds of requests, such as home catering with a special team of chefs,'' said Chalerm.

''With their culinary experience and professionalism I'm sure they can create all sorts of culinary delights to celebrate any occasion. The beautiful dinner they created tonight will surely make a perfect evening.''